Dressing the Decade - 1964

It's been a fair while since the last installment of Dressing the Decade, and I do apologise as I've just been too busy to spend the time researching and so on. But this weekend was a lot more relaxing. Catching up on blogs, baking and catching up on some TV shows has been really nice while writing this post. 

Speaking of which, if your in Australia I hope you've marked Mondays at 8:40pm in your diary to watch Love Child! For those not familiar with the show, Love child focuses on the lives of the Nurses and girls at a women's hospital in Kings Cross, Sydney set in 1969. The main story line focuses on Nurse Joan Millar who has just moved from London back to Sydney and discovers her new place of employment engages in illegal forced adoptions on un-wed mothers. A poignant and sensitive topic for Australian women's history as forced adoptions were something practiced quite often - so much so that the government was compelled to make an apology in 2013 to the Mothers and Children involved in the practice. I highly recommend watching it not just for the story line, but also for the music and of course costumes!

Anyway, so back today's blog post. I last left you in November with 1963. That year we started to see the emergence of youth fashion with silhouettes slimming down and the cinched in waistlines almost disappearing 

So lets continue now 1964!

1964 was the year of the British invasion - the Beatles conquered America and along with their English musical counterparts changed American music significantly.

Also in 1964, the first Biba boutique opened on Abingdon Road in Kensington, driving London girls crazy for the new and fresh clothing styles. Mary Quants' popularity in London had hit a peak and her name was becoming more meaningful in New York. Paraphernalia didn't open until 1965, but as America became more fascinated with the British music scene, it wasn't long till the fashion, movies and culture of London also became popular, with the youth driving the change

Sewing patterns from this year start to gear towards this fresh youth market with sweet shift dresses in bright colours and easy to make shapes. The dresses themselves being so simple, needed something additional to make up for their basic shape and so many include cute collars, bows, pockets, belts and buttons as a feature

McCalls 7245

McCalls 7563

McCalls 7228

McCalls 7522

Simplicity 5824

McCalls 7657

McCalls 7655

The simple shapes of 1964, arose from the fashion industry turning their attention to the teenagers of the time. Wasp waists and big skirts were for the old folks - teenagers wanted clothing comfortable for dancing, shopping and wearing all day without having to change for dinner. The original mod look, in its own subculture had achieved this simplicity early on, but it was now that fashion designers started to pick up this minimal look for themselves and teenagers and young women across the world loved it!

McCalls 7188

McCalls 7205

Simplicity 5455

Work wear in 1964 also incorporated the simple silhouette, with suits and smart work dresses. Most tried to match their male counterparts with deep Chelsea collars and ties worn with tailored jackets and skirts 

Simplicity 5782

McCalls 7419

Simplicity 5659

Choose your collar! McCalls 7632

McCalls 7316

A take on the double breasted suit - McCalls 7290

McCalls 7356

Skirts were usually slim fitting tube skirts and jackets were cut to stop just at the hip. They were wider so that when they were buttoned up they were still loose around the body. 

This was a similar style to 1963, though what would have made them more current for the wearer would have been the colours used as well as the small details such a buttons, collars and belts

Simplicity 5566

McCalls 7473

Day wear for women had also moved far since the practical shirt dresses of the early 60s. Women still wanted practical outfits that could be dressed up or down for shopping or lunching

Often a belt, scarf or necklace was enough to dress up these simple dresses. 

Hats had dropped in popularity as hairstyles became a fashion statement of their own. The time spent on a perfect bouffant would have been wasted if crushed with a hat. The pillbox hat was still a good choice for a formal occasion or church, but for the most part hats were not as often worn.  

Simplicity 5616

McCalls 7369

Simplicity 5728

McCalls 7501

McCalls 7248

Formal wear had a variation of looks from fit and flare to slim, seductive cocktail dresses. For younger girls a lower waist line was introduced - the drop waist. This allowed girls both the slim fitting shift style and the pretty full skirts that they were used to

Simplicity 5502

McCalls 7239

McCalls 7281

McCalls 7443

Outerwear started to take a bit more of a fitted shape after the full cocoon coats of the early 60s. Princess coats, made of double cloth or wool took the new slim look from dresses to coats. They were often not fussy, but the colours and decorative pieces were all you needed to dress them up.

Simplicity 5558

McCalls 7193

McCalls 7392

The empire bust line - which started appearing in 1963 was still a popular choice - but now with a variation on the bust line. Patterns started featuring the seam line above the bust in a kind of smock style. They could be worn loose or with a belt and harkened back to the cute smock dresses of the wearers childhood.

One of Barbara Hulanicki's early dresses for Biba - a brown chalkstripe dress, featured a higher bust line and was sold in her new Kensington store, selling out in hours

Simplicity 5402

McCalls 7225

McCalls 7227

I also just had to show you this fantastic pattern! 

Simplicity 5554

As soon as I saw this one- it seemed to have a Beatles feel about it. Don't you think? The collarless jacket with a thin tie looks similar to the fab fours grey collarless suit jackets.

When the Beatles hit the big time - the merchandising surrounding their fame was available every where and fashion for teens became available to dress just like them - and I have little doubt that this pattern may have been designed with them in mind 

And of course to finish - some favourites

Simplicity 5567

Perfect college studying attire McCalls 7593

McCalls 7249

5 year old me is in love with this one! McCalls 7453

McCalls 7385

McCalls 7334 - focusing on the collar as point of interest

McCalls 7383 - with matching sweater knitting pattern!

A casual drop waist dress for teens McCalls 7192

McCalls 7306

McCalls 7261 - I have this pattern and I will attempt those pants at some point this year!

Simplicity 5717 - A low cut shift - something that would be come popular in later years

So what do we understand of fashion in 1964? Dresses were cut simply without accentuating the waist, allowing the details to do the talking. Sweet additions such as bows and collars were popular and fashion designers continued their focus on the youth market. 

Hem lines were generally still at the knee, but the more adventurous girls started to wear slightly shorter skirts.

Waist and bust lines moved from the waist to the hips and bust and jackets became longer - hitting the hips and continuing that illusion of height and simplicity. Smart, neat suits and shift dresses for office working women and chic dresses and fitted coats for the ladies of leisure. 

1964, continues the drive towards minimalist dressing. What will we see in 1965?

See the other years here;

1960, 1961, 1962, 1963

Is 1964 your year? What's your favourite pattern? I think McCalls 7392 is my pick - mainly cause the illustration is so chic! 

Cat xo

P.S - Thanks for reading all the way through this mega post!

All pattern images from Vintage pattern wiki