60s fashion elements - The Bishop Sleeve

Some of the things about 60s clothing tend to catch my eye when trawling through Pinterest or Tumblr. Certain elements that you begin to notice as integral parts to the look that was being worn by the Dolly Birds and Dandies of the time

In this set of blog posts, I want to explore the different elements of clothing that we often associate with or were popular in the 60s

I'll try to explain the construction of these elements and show some examples of these styles

There are many features that became popular in the 60s - most of which already existed in some form and were adapted for modern youth wear, or were invented from scratch through the genius of designers like Mary Quant or André Courrèges

This week we are going to have a look at Bishop Sleeves. Read onto the end for a little tutorial.

This particular type of sleeve is distinct in shape - a long sleeve, fuller at the bottom than the top, and gathered into a cuff, similar to some Church Bishops sleeves - hence the name.

Bishop Sleeves have been in use intermittently since the 6th century in the Byzantine era and were common during the 1830s to 1860’s.

Civil War couple - Bishop Sleeves with smocking

They were also featured in the 30s and 40s from suit jackets to silky nightgowns.

Vogue 9872; ca. 1943; Blouse. Gathered tuck-in blouse.
New deep drawstring neck-line adjusts fullness front and back.
Full bishop sleeves, or very short puff sleeves

Vintage 30s Hollywood Claire Dodd Balloon 

Bishop Shirred Sleeve Blouse Sewing Pattern 982 B34

1940's Lilli Ann Film Noir Dramatic Bishop Sleeve Jacket

The style became popular again in the mid-60s and was popular on dresses and blouses and later became an important part of the hippy look.

They were often paired with a puffed shoulder like in the Biba example below, or with a simple set in sleeve.

It can also be broken up half way down the arm with a seam to create more emphasis on the shape.

Bishop Sleeve on Left

The "hippy" look joined bishop sleeves with peasant blouses in light cotton or linen which made them soft and added to the ethereal nature look.

Esquire Magazine

They continued to be popular into the 70's and 80's in Lycra and polyesters which suited the softness of the style

70s Vogue Paris original Pattern 2444 Guy Laroche Dreamy Evening Gown Plunging To The Waist Neckline Full Bishop Sleeves Slim Underdress Bias Over Dress Beautiful Design

 Bishop sleeves balance out a silhouette and make the shoulders look smaller in comparison

Marianne Faithfull

The cuff can be as simple as elastic, decorative smocking, a bias casing, or a full buttoned cuff with placket

The girl on the left with metallic shift - placket Sleeve with 3 button cuff

Britt Ekland - Luce cuffs

Jenny Boyd at the Apple Boutique

Fashion Illustration showing cuffed sleeve with decorative trim

Left - Bias band cuff, Right - Buttoned cuff

Pattie Boyd. Sleeve with Elasticized cuff

Coleen Corby - Sleeve with banded cuff

They can be constructed in most fabrics from velvet to cotton, but look especially idyllic in soft fabrics like chiffon, silk or a light jersey - as it allows the sleeve to billow over the wrist and move freely.

Penelope Tree - Smock in textured velvet

Cilla Black on her wedding day to Bobby Willis. Cilla is wearing crimson velvet with puffed bishop sleeves

A red crepe dress showing its Cosack inspiration by Jean Patou, Vogue Pattern Book April-May 1969

The pattern for bishop sleeves can be a single piece or a 2 part piece. This 2 part piece allows the back part of the sleeve to be longer than the front. When the arm is hanging straight down, the sleeve will be obviously longer at the back and the cuff will be pulled up slightly at the front. This is done so that when the elbow is bent, the cuff becomes straight and doesn't restrict movement in the elbow.

And now a tutorial for a basic Bishop sleeve with bias case

Start by cutting the sleeve and cuff from the fashion fabric

Run a basting stitch along the bottom edge of the sleeve and pull to gather

Take your cuff and iron in the two long edges (Ignore the short edge crease...)

Pin the bias onto the sleeve - pulling it around so that it all fits on

Sew the first layer of the casing

Fold it over and sew the bias closed

Stitch the inside of the sleeve to close

Voila!

You can also do the sleeve in reverse to keep the seams neater - Arm seam first, then attach the cuff.

Are you a fan of the bishop sleeve? Do you have a favourite garment which features this type of sleeve?

Cat xo