Choosing, storing and using vintage patterns

Hi everyone! How's your week going? 

I was having a little ponder the other day when shopping for patterns about challenges that new sewers might have when it comes to picking out vintage patterns to work on for the first time.

When I started using original vintage patterns, my main concern was the sizing as well as what pattern would suit me best. 

So hopefully in this post, I can give you some tips about how to choose vintage patterns, how to use them and finally how to store them so they are yours for many more years. 

Choosing a pattern

The great thing about vintage patterns is that they're honestly not all that popular with most sewers. Just like vintage clothes, you may need to have an interest in a certain era to want to replicate exactly what was being worn many years ago. Within the Spoolettes only myself and a few others sew with vintage patterns, so I am in the minority. But I can't blame them, there are so many beautiful modern patterns out there especially from the indie pattern makers!

Vintage patterns are really easy to come by, so the market has plenty of stock to offer. Considering that home sewing was at its height in the 50's, 60's and 70's, you'll tend to find a lot more patterns from these years as there were so many being printed. Pattern companies also had a habit of reselling the same pattern with a new pattern number or copying each other (with some differences) so if you can't find a particular pattern in your size from Simplicity, you may just find an exact copy from Butterick for example

The Vogue and Simplicity patterns shown here are very similar and both from 1967. The Simplicity version was cheaper and had a tie belt and Nehru collar. The Vogue version offers a maxi length, but otherwise they are exactly the same

How much should I pay? 

If you’re lucky to find the perfect pattern at the opp shop or goodwill, chances are it's not going to cost more than a dollar, so that’s a win! 

If you like to buy from places like Etsy, eBay or other private pattern sellers, the majority of patterns from the 50's onward will sell for around $10 to $15. Which is around the RRP of brand new patterns from the store.  

Expect to pay more for patterns preceding the 50's, designer or couturier patterns from Vogue or if they are considered rare. Rare in my understanding are patterns that wouldn't have sold a lot originally like patterns for hats or stockings or were included as part of a limited offer from a magazine etc.

If you come across a pattern labelled as rare, but you’re not too sure, give it a quick Google and see if it really is rare or if the seller is maybe over stretching a bit. 

My limit on regular dress patterns is $15 to $20. I might pay more for a particular pattern or designer. The most I have paid is $40 for a Vogue Couturier design pattern. 

My only Vogue Couturier pattern which I paid just over $40 for

I have seen on eBay and Etsy regularly available patterns being sold for $80 and one for even $200!! Not sure if it was a typo as the patterns were not rare, but keep your wits about you when buying patterns and have a limit. Some sellers may just be selling something they found at an opp shop and assume is rare or special, but the actual value of paper sewing patterns is actually quite low because of the amount there are available to buy

Sizing is also another interesting point to look out for. In the mid-60's most of the pattern companies underwent a sizing change. This meant that if you were buying a size 14 last week, you would now need to buy a size 12. A nice little high-five for your self-confidence! 

The above size chart is for a McCall's dress from 1959 and the below chart is for McCall's pyjamas from 1968. Noting the differences in a size 16 (highlighted). When buying these two patterns, the 1959 shopper would buy a 16, but the 1968 shopper would buy a 14

To know whether you need to be wary if this, take a look at the front of the pattern. It will say something like 'New sizing'. Be sure to check your measurements in the photos of the pattern. If the seller doesn't include a photo of the back, send them a quick message asking for them to do so.

As an example, I know if I am buying a pre-1965 pattern I would need to buy a 16. Anything after that I would need to by a 14. (But in modern clothes I buy a size 12!)

Vintage patterns were also only sold as one size per envelope, so picking the right size is pretty important, unless your quite good at adjusting patterns to fit you, then you can buy a different size and make the adjustments yourself

They also had other sizing methods like junior for girls or teenagers and petite for smaller women. Simplicity also had a slenderette range - which means they were designed to visually slim your silhouette down using clever panelling, pattern placement and other decorative details.

The first vintage pattern I bought was Butterick 2624 - A simple shift with a coat pattern. I chose it because it was simple and I could be sure to know exactly how it would look. No high neck ruffles or kitschy collars to scare me! I wasn't ready for that look back then. When buying your first pattern, you're of course free to choose what every you like, but patterns such as Butterick 2624 and other "wardrobe building" patterns are also a good investment as you get many pieces to practice with and modify to suit your style

In addition, because these are original patterns, the fit, look and length are all totally different, so you may need to lop a few inches off the hem, do a full bust adjustment or make other changes to adapt to our modern bodies.

Most patterns will come under the names of the big four - Simplicity, Vogue, McCall's and Butterick. 

But there are also plenty of other smaller companies like Maudella, Kwik Sew, Burda, New Look, Advance, Weigels, Le Roy and Style and also mail order patterns which usually were unmarked. They will often make indications to a catalogue or a form you can order from.

Smaller pattern companies Maudella, New Look and Weigel's. Facile was a mail order pattern company from Queensland, Australia

Storage

Storing of patterns varies for most people. Some (like me) like to carefully document the patterns and make a catalogue. Some people are OK with just popping them in a shoebox. 

Ideally, because they are old and are paper some more care should be taken to ensure they last another 50 years. The most damage happens to the envelopes themselves considering they are the part protecting the pieces. The paper they make patterns from is quite sturdy, even though it looks pretty flimsy

The best preserved patterns I own had been taken care of well by their former owner. Usually packed in a box away from damp and sunlight. This is probably the best technique, but you can of course be a little more careful and put them in plastic sleeves to keep away dust and insects. 

My pattern draw, with the patterns in individual plastic sleeves

Some of my patterns are in pretty bad shape, with bits of envelope degenerating every time I handle them. Over the years, this can happen to your sewing patterns to if you’re not careful with them now. 

Probably the least well taken care of pattern I own. The paper is brittle and little bits flake off all the time. It also looks as though it has sunlight damage at the top

If you receive a pattern that you bought online that's in pretty bad nick, you can attempt to repair the envelope yourself with some archive quality tape. You can use regular sticky tape, but the glue on this could break down over time and leave stains. Newer sticky tape may not ever do this unlike its counterparts from yesteryear but do take care when using it.

Other alternatives to keeping the damaged envelope are checking online to see if someone is selling just the envelope. The contents may have been lost or damaged, so some sellers will still sell the envelopes for a few dollars as replacements or as scrap-booking supplies. You can also colour photocopy the old envelope to make a new one from regular paper or laminate it, making a card that you put into a plastic sleeve with the pattern pieces. 

Using 

So how should you use your vintage pattern? Some people may argue for preserving the pattern wholly and tracing off the pieces onto modern pattern paper. Some, like me are happy to use the pattern pieces, pin them and cut around them.

If you’re a fan of the former, be sure to get yourself some good tracing paper. Swedish tracing paper is the current favourite for dress makers, but can be a little pricey. Other acid free paper on a roll is suitable too. If you're in Australia, your local supermarket should sell home brand baking paper which is about 69c a roll. There is branded baking paper as well for a few dollars more. 

Once you've traced off your pattern, you can then make adjustments and trace and retrace until you have the perfect fit!

If you are happy to actually use the vintage pattern pieces, I think there should only be one rule. Do not cut the pattern!! 

Cutting off hems or making direct alterations won't help the next person who may inherit your pattern! Also they don't take so kindly to sticky tape like the envelope might. Because they are vintage, cutting the pattern reduces their overall value. You may never want to sell your pattern collection, but you can be sure that unaltered ones will always be favoured over cut up ones.

If you need to alter a pattern, trace over it and then make your alteration. And once you've finished with the pattern piece, fold it up neatly and pop it back in the envelope. Leaving it out on the floor or the table is just inviting it to be sun damaged, ripped accidentally or perhaps chewed on by a pet. I remember when I was little, the family dog running inside and making a meal of one of my mums pattern pieces. She was able to trace off a replacement piece luckily!

Well now that was rather long, but I hope it was helpful! Using vintage patterns is a great way to get the look of your preferred era and they even use techniques that may now be skipped by modern patterns. I fully encourage you to give them a try! 

If you have any questions please leave a comment! 

Cat xo