So far I have really enjoyed making this dress. Sewing with a different fabric in a new style is rather refreshing! And as this is underlined, managing 2 pieces of fabric that move around a lot has been a learning experience
To recap, this dress as named after the BIBA genius herself Barbara Hulanicki, will be modeled on this pattern - Style 1118 (1975)
This is the rough sketch of the end dress as inspired by the beautiful BIBA dresses of the late 60s
And the star of it all, the fabric - black chiffon with a tiny gold print. (Here it is for sale on the Lincraft website)
I decided to try making a muslin of the bodice first to check the fit and also the height of the neck line. Happily it didn't need any alterations and the neckline is rather decent, so not much more in terms of fitting was needed.
|Sorry for the terrible photo|
As a nice little surprise when I was laying out the pieces I found 2 back segments. There is only supposed to be one in the envelope and it was for the same pattern, so perhaps when it was being put together in the factory, the assembler made a mistake? And then unfortunately for someone, all those years ago ended up without the back piece of their skirt... poor them
Here are all the pieces traced and ready to go...
|Bodice Back, 2 darts one at the top and one at the bottom|
|Bodice Front with french darts, cut on the fold|
|The cuff piece from Vogue 7219|
|The sleeve piece from Vogue 7219|
|One of the skirt backs|
The dress features the underling as the facing also (not sure if that wording is correct?) so I started the dress by sewing the neckline closed
Once it was turned out it looked like this...
Then I sewed the darts closed, and used french seams to piece together the skirt pieces, and then the skirt to the bodice, and this is what I have so far...
This is only the front and I'll do pretty much the same with the back, but with a zipper.
The fabric itself is really nice to work with, but when its ironed, it buckles as bit. Annoyingly I need it on a warmer setting for the lining, but the chiffon itself takes the lowest setting. Any suggestions on how to tackle that?
Also assisting my Barbara dress dreams, is this blog by BIBA illustrator Kasia Charko, who did all of the beautiful drawings for Big BIBA and many others in the art deco, 30s and 40s style.
How are your sewing projects going?